Wednesday 9 January 2013

Fashion and Photography

Not looking at this kind of thing, more looking at the relationship between the model and the photographer.
 Technique of the ghost manikin, where there is no body at all.
One of the first photographic images, captured on a basic camera, one of the first images that can be fixed, its perminent.
Starts to work on the silver nitrate process, a street view, but there is also a human figure in the image, the reason that they were there is because they were the only people who were still enough and stayed there long enough to capture the image on the plate.
 Images are reproducable, and they are able to be seen by the masses.

 Distruction of the negative, you can see where its starting the decay.

She is a wealthy women and part of the court, she is very interested in fashion and as she is wealthy she gets people to take photos of her in different gowns. She is posing in a theatrical way.

Sexual overtone to the way that she poses to these images, there are about 700 different photographs, where she reenacts key moments of her life.

 She also does fragmenting of the body, at the time to view women's ancles and feet is very riske.

 Phototgraphy starts to replace illustrations that were previously used.

 This is during the period of modernism. Loose clothing cut along straight lines.

Featured the style of the day in the magazine, you can see pictorialism in this picture really clearly, makes it almost look like brush work.

Similar sort of theme, she looks like she is posing in a wistful and romantic way, she looks as if she is acting out a character. Very popular in the pictorialist tradition.

People are testing out the capacity of the camera, shows an active female, although still fashion photography. His background in sport influences his fashion photography. In this time they start getting interested in looking after the body.
Using dramatic abstract shapes, careful use of light in this image, the use of fine detail. Using the camera for the qualities and the abilities of a camera, which only a camera could capture. Images start to reflect whats going on in general life. She is a personality and a socialite.

First photographic magazine over, at this time, a lot of vogue covers were still drawn or illustrated, takes a while for photography to kick off with the magazines.

Shes influenced by the greek mythical draping, reflecting that sense of flow and fluidity. Dream like angle like feel, the model is given a mythical status. Shows something that's unreachable to an ordinary person.
Film made for the worlds fair in 1939, feature semi naked figures floating around. Experimenting with the way you use a camera to shows fantasy through photography.

Unatainable lifestyle, wealthy young people. The photographer is actually socialising in that world, he is one of them.

He also designs sets, he is working with the most prominent actresses of their day. Placeing her in the wings, getting the impression of the star, when she is not in the limelight. This is in fact a glimse into a glamorous world that normal people don't have access to. Very dramatic scene where she is almost acting a prat. To be photographed by him means that you are very important.

 He is friends with Beaton, camera shows a statement, and he is also a royal photograher.
Statement of her wealth, showing he in her own home, making the royals into this glamorous thing ans set.

She crosses the boundries between model and photographer. Becomes a model at a very young age, but then takes up photography herself, she gets into the movement of surrealism.

 She is interesting that she is on both sides of the camera, which influences her imagery.

 She is able to cross worlds between hard hitting photography, and fashion, whilst also modeling too.

She is interested in sculpture, therefore reflects that in her work. Illuminates her body and half illuminating the statue, looking at the differences and similarities. She uses the statue of the body to form her shape. Reference to a classical female figure.

 Contrast between the figure in the foreground and the figure in the background.

 Although here is colour in photography, its not used a lot in fashion photography back then.
Them being commissioned to take fashion photographs, therefore as a street photography he merges the two methods together, he translates that into his fashion photography. Letting the models interact with the street, stepping back and using a very long lense, he was interesting in capturing people reactions or lack of reactions. Play with the stipes on the zebra crossing and the stripes on the dresses.

 Photography with popular culture, three working class guys, that are self taught.

 Issues of town magazine, influenced by film, a bond like character, he is recreating it.

60's every girl, model being the girl next door, rather that the glamorous film star or royalty, girls that are accessable. Going out and focuses on having a good time. Looking at the camera in a sudductive way, but showing that there is a barrier between them. Looking into a menswear shop, there is an agreement between the model and photographer.

 Part of the new approach to fashion photography.
No distracting background, he is giving us the inbetween moment, to show the sense of movement, and what happens off camera.

On a road trip, documenting photographs of people that he finds on the way, actually making someone who is unknown and not fashionable, has a way of making him look like a model, showing him in the studio, turns him into a fashion image.

Also the use of the body at this time, showing objectification of the female body. Hes most well known for photographing the power of the body. This is a self portrait of his wife and him, we are given multiple points of view, backwards and forwards of the gaze, reminding us that the photographer is there.Its okay cos my wife is her, is what he seems to be saying.

He is chopping up the body to get rid of all the excess, and just showing the part of the body that he wants to show. Dark character, he had relationships with his models, that he got reported to have treated really badly.

Casual street fashion photography. This style of street photography started to come back. These are people who he lives with, he lives in this area, so photographs them.

Go out and photograph people in the streets. Moving away from inaccessable fashion and towards DIY fashion.

Images are not airbrushed, blemishes are left on the skin, called herroin chique. Glamorous but dark at the same time. Untouched style.

 Fashion shoot that looks like a documentary shoot. Although it has been staged its not real.

One of the first people to photograph Kate Moss. Model in a room that could be a squat, or a room that isn't nice. The after party look.

Works in fashion but in a documentary way, she documents everything about her life 'warts and all' type portrait. Going from recreational drug use to getting out of control, its quite a dark piece.

This puts an end to the realism that was so popular, photoshop seem to offer the potential to resculpt the photo rather than just remove parts of the photo.

 Almost a spoof. He works with Vogue e.t.c. he has been celebrated for his over sexual photography.

The model almost becoming part of the machine, stepped over the line and almost into cartoon-like image. The women is almost like a superhero, or like a transformer.

 We all have cameras now, everyone can be a street photographer, or blog about fashion.

One of the earlier blogs, going round and photographing people in the street and asking them opinions on fashion.

Bedroom fashion photography, she photographs herself everyday and blogs about it each day, the same kind of image each time, and has been imotated so other people can send picture in of them, its self styling and doing it yourself.

This is the reality of the job market, anybody can do this, you don't have to go to college to be a photographer.

Look at the idea of street fashion taken into an art project, they are making a project to document global fashion, they are making a typology. Tell you where they find the people, and they try to say that individuality is not accessable in a global view. Everyone has a certain fashion group.

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